{"id":1516,"date":"2010-11-24T10:37:01","date_gmt":"2010-11-24T15:37:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.massfolkarts.org\/blog\/?p=1516"},"modified":"2010-11-24T10:37:01","modified_gmt":"2010-11-24T15:37:01","slug":"the-cultural-source-of-chocolate-mexican-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.massfolkarts.org\/index.php\/2010\/11\/the-cultural-source-of-chocolate-mexican-style\/","title":{"rendered":"The Cultural Source of Chocolate, Mexican style"},"content":{"rendered":"

I grew up, like most people in this part of the world, eating European style chocolate. So having this Mexican traditional chocolate was revelatory. <\/em><\/p>\n

<\/em>Alex Whitmore, Co-founder of Taza Chocolate<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

If you attended last summer’s\u00a0 Lowell Folk Festival<\/a> and wandered into the foodways tent in Lucy Larcom Park,\u00a0you would have seen (and tasted) that we were into beans.\u00a0Cooks\u00a0representing five different cultural cuisines shared their favorite bean dishes with the crowd (750 servings in all).<\/p>\n

In an upcoming public program at Lowell National Historical Park<\/a>, we will be exploring\u00a0a different kind of bean.\u00a0Just two days before Valentine’s day,\u00a0we will\u00a0present a program on\u00a0the\u00a0Mexican tradition of manufacturing, baking, and cooking with\u00a0chocolate\u00a0made from stoneground cacao beans.<\/p>\n

As the date approaches,\u00a0more info will be posted, but in the meantime, I thought I’d share some\u00a0details from my recent visit to Taza Chocolate<\/a>, a Mexican-style chocolate factory\u00a0in Somerville, Massachusetts.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

My guide was Alex Whitmore, co-founder of Taza Chocolate. Taza is one of several businesses located in an industrial\u00a0building\u00a0near the Cambridge\/Somerville border.\u00a0 Walking into the main entrance, I was immediately overwhelmed by the pleasant aroma of chocolate. If only one could record smells . . .<\/p>\n

As companies go, Taza Chocolate is fairly new. Established in 2006, Taza is dedicated to manufacturing minimally processed chocolate made from\u00a0fair trade organic\u00a0cacao beans.\u00a0Rotary\u00a0stone mills from Oaxaca are used to grind the roasted beans.<\/p>\n

Before touring through the factory, Alex and I sat down for an interview. Turns out, Taza\u00a0is one of only 18 companies in the United States that are a “bean to bar” chocolate manufacturer, meaning rather than buying processed chocolate, they\u00a0actually make chocolate from\u00a0cacao beans bought directly from growers in Central America.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

The majority of businesses making and selling chocolate are called “chocolatiers.” They may make delicious chocolate candy but they\u00a0buy they don’t start by roasting and grinding\u00a0their own cacao beans. The smooth, melt-in-your mouth chocolate we associate with\u00a0Swiss,\u00a0Belgium, and Italian confections is a relative newcomer on the scene. As Alex reminded me, the indigenous peoples of Central and South America\u00a0consumed chocolate primarily as a drink for thousands of years before the delectable substance was\u00a0introduced to Europeans.\u00a0“The [cacao tree] is indigenous to Central and South America. And because of that, it became culturally important as a food stuff in the early civilizations of the Americas. The Europeans didn’t actually get their hands on the cacao bean until after the Columbian exchange when the Spanish brought it back over to Europe. They didn’t really start making chocolate as we know it today, in a solid form until the late 1700s, early 1800s. And It wasn’t really developed until the mid to later 1800s as a fine candy.”<\/p>\n

The chocolate made at Taza differs significantly from chocolate manufactured around the United States. “We make chocolate in a very specific tradition . . .\u00a0 The entire process is very much inspired by Southern Mexican chocolate making.”<\/p>\n

Cacao\u00a0beans come from\u00a0the theobroma tree, which grows best in a hot and humid climate.\u00a0The fruit of the theobroma tree is a cacoa pod, which contains seeds called beans. Alex points out that “Because Taza chocolate is made with such\u00a0 minimal processing, our\u00a0product tastes like our ingredients.” What this means is that it is really important for the company to personally source their beans, buying directly from\u00a0farmers\u00a0with which they have developed a personal\u00a0relationship.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Once the\u00a0beans are harvested, they are fermented and dried before being\u00a0shipped to Taza.\u00a0Fermentation creates more complex flavors. Alex made the comparison between\u00a0the taste of flour and water, like matzoh (unleavened bread) to the more complex\u00a0taste of bread\u00a0made with yeast.<\/p>\n

I asked Alex about his time in Oaxaca, Mexico, where he studied under several molineros<\/em> (Spanish for stone ground millers.) In this part of Mexico,\u00a0being a\u00a0molinero<\/em> is a family tradition which is passed down from father to son and kept rather secretive. Although Alex learned a good bit about dressing the grinding stones, he was never allowed to see stones with freshly cut patterns.<\/p>\n

As is done in Mexico, Taza uses granite\u00a0milling stones to grind their cacao beans. They hand chisel each millstone with a pattern specifically designed for grinding chocolate.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Stone ground chocolate, like stone ground grain, leaves\u00a0granular bits behind,\u00a0which gives Taza chocolate its\u00a0rustic texture. After our interview, Alex led me through the factory to see various stages of production – winnowing, grinding, roasting, tempering, molding, and packaging. Taza also runs a retail store, and offers factory tours to the public three times a week.<\/p>\n

If you’d like to meet Alex and learn more about their unique products and philosophy, plan on attending our program on February 12, 2011 at Lowell National Historical Park — Visitor Center. Details to follow.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I grew up, like most people in this part of the world, eating European style chocolate. So having this Mexican traditional chocolate was revelatory. Alex Whitmore, Co-founder of Taza Chocolate If you attended last summer’s\u00a0 Lowell Folk Festival and wandered into the foodways tent in Lucy Larcom Park,\u00a0you would have seen (and tasted) that we … Continue reading “The Cultural Source of Chocolate, Mexican style”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[73],"tags":[360,359,797,362,361],"class_list":["post-1516","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foodways","tag-cacoa-beans","tag-chocolate","tag-foodways","tag-stone-ground-chocolate","tag-taza-chocolate"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Cultural Source of Chocolate, Mexican style - Keepers of Tradition<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.massfolkarts.org\/index.php\/2010\/11\/the-cultural-source-of-chocolate-mexican-style\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Cultural Source of Chocolate, Mexican style - Keepers of Tradition\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I grew up, like most people in this part of the world, eating European style chocolate. 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